Welcome to our How to Grow Chinese Vegetables series: Bok Choy edition! In this post, we’ll talk about how to grow bok choy (also sometimes spelled, pak choi).
(If you aren’t sure what this series is or why we’re doing it, check out the introductory post of the series.)
We’ll cover different varieties, ideal growing conditions, problems you may encounter and how to avoid them, harvesting best practices, and even some history!
We have professional insights from Christina Chan, farmer and owner of Choy Division, a regenerative Asian vegetable and herb farm in the Hudson Valley (check out their CSA!), who has generously offered to share her expertise with us and our readers.
We also have our own tips and learnings from growing bok choy in our garden this year. Towards the end of the post, we’ll talk about how our bok choy planting went in more detail!
About Bok Choy & Why It’s Worth Growing
Bok Choy belongs to the Brassica genus of vegetables, which includes cabbages, cauliflower, kale, radishes, broccoli, and mustard greens.
It’s rich in fiber, calcium, vitamin C, vitamin K, folate, and many other vitamins and minerals, making it a delicious and healthy addition to your meals (and garden).
It is considered a “non-heading cabbage,” in that it doesn’t have leaves that curl inward to form a dense ball. Rather, the leaves bush out a bit while still being connected at the base.
These vegetables come in various sizes and varieties. They’re one of the biggest bangs for your buck in the garden, as they grow and mature quickly. If you start these from seed, most varieties will be ready to harvest in just 6 weeks.
They’re also suitable for container growing if you don’t have a large space available.
Bok Choy is one of the most common and versatile Chinese leafy green vegetables. It makes a simple side dish when stir-fried with garlic—and it goes with just about anything.
It’s also great in soups, steamed, blanched, or added to stir-fries with other ingredients.It also works as a dumpling and wonton filling!
To learn more about how we cook bok choy, and different recipes on our blog that use it, check out our post, .
Bok Choy Varieties TO TRY
While in that Ingredients Glossary post, we talk about four different varieties, large bok choy, Shanghai green baby bok choy, dwarf bok choy, and “little” bok choy, we’re going to focus this post on the Shanghai green and dwarf types.
These varieties are smaller and more versatile for cooking, and the seeds are relatively easy to find online. These are also the two varieties we use the most in our kitchen. They’re the most worth growing in our opinion!
- Shanghai Green: Shanghai Green Bok Choy varieties have light green stems and smooth, spoon-shaped leaves. They can be harvested small (as “baby bok choy”) or at a medium size. Some varieties you may find include Shanghai Green and Mei Qing Choi. There are other hybrids and varieties out there as well.
- White Stem Dwarf Bok Choy: This type of bok choy is small, like Shanghai baby bok choy, but it has creamy white stems rather than light green ones. The leaves are darker green and curly rather than smooth. Varieties of this type include: Dwarf, Hotau, and Nabi Queen.
We planted a Shanghai green stemmed bok choy variety called ‘Summer Zest,’ which was described as a heat tolerant hybrid variety suited to late spring or fall planting.
CHRISTINA’S RECOMMENDED SEED SOURCES!
- Second Generation Seeds
- New Asian-owned seed company putting seed and plant development into the hands of growers and eaters
- Preserves and shares seed stories
- No longer Asian owned, but still has the largest variety of Asian seeds available
- TrueLove Seeds
- Works with small farms across the U.S. to steward their seed collection
- Focus on BIPOC community
- Preserves and shares seed stories
- Hudson Valley Seed Company
- Great small local seed company in the New York area
- Johnny’s Selected Seeds
- A favorite of small farms
Ideal Growing Conditions for Bok Choy
Let’s talk about what these plants like!
Like most leafy green vegetables, bok choy prefers cooler temperatures. It performs poorly in heat, and generally prefers temperatures to remain between 55-75°F/12-24°C. Some varieties can tolerate hotter temperatures, as long as they’re well watered.
It’s a good idea to plant these vegetables when they have the best chance of staying between this optimal temperature range. This is generally around mid- to late spring for an early summer harvest, or late summer to harvest in fall. Timing will depend on your local climate.
Of course, you can’t control the weather, and Mother Nature has her own plans, which we found out this year, but try to give your seeds their best shot!
Bok choy prefers cool yet sunny conditions. Choose a spot that will allow the plants to get 6-8 hours of direct sun per day.
As the weather warms, full sun can make conditions too hot, so you may want to choose a spot that will eventually have partial shade as the season wears on (from a nearby tree perhaps). If temperatures remain cool, shade is not as important.
Bok choy needs rich, well-drained, but moisture-retentive soil. In other words, it needs a good amount of moisture so that the plants can drink, but shouldn’t be sitting in heavy, soggy soil that could rot the roots and leaves.
It needs a good amount of nutrients, so adding a 1- to 3-inch (about 5cm) layer of organic compost to your planting area is a good idea.
The seeds need soil temperatures of around 40-75°F to germinate (5-24°C). Germination will happen faster in warmer soil.
When it comes to how often to water bok choy, it depends on your other growing conditions. They need to be watered regularly, either by you or by the rain!
The soil should be kept moist, but not sodden. If you have a very hot day in the forecast, give your plants a good drink in the days before to help them withstand the heat!
Another important factor is how to space the plants apart from each other. Proper spacing of larger plants depends on the variety, but according to Christina, for smaller varieties that grow to max 8 inches (20cm) tall, 6 inches (15cm) of spacing between plants is sufficient. Rows should be about 6 inches (15cm) apart as well.
If sowing seeds directly into the ground, you can space the seeds a bit closer together (about 2-3 inches/5-8cm apart) and then thin them as they grow. This is what we did, probably waiting a bit longer than usual to thin!
BOK CHOY Fast Facts
Days to Maturity
45 days from seed to harvest
1/4 to 1/2 an inch (about 1 cm)
Sow seeds 2-3 inches (5-7cm) apart, and thin to 6 inches (15cm) apart when seedlings are anywhere from 1 to 4 inches (3-10cm) tall. Rows should be spaced 6 inches (15cm) apart.
Full sun, or partial shade in warmer climates
OPTIMAL GROWING TEMPERATURE
55°F to 75°F (12°C to 24°C)
Learn More About COOKING Bok Choy
How to Sow Bok Choy Seeds
You have two choices when it comes to sowing your bok choy seeds: direct sowing, and starting the seeds indoors followed by transplanting them into the ground.
There are some pros and cons to each approach. Let’s talk about them!
The advantage of this method is that it’s a bit easier, in that you don’t need seed trays or a greenhouse/grow lights to start growing bok choy. You can just put the seeds into the ground and watch the plants grow!
You’re also seeding the vegetables directly into the soil they will continue growing in, avoiding the “transplant shock” of moving a seedling from a plug or tray into the soil.
The disadvantage here is that if you have “heavy weed and pest pressure,” as Christina calls it, your small seedlings can get outcompeted or eaten before they have a chance to grow.
Direct sowing is ideal for containers, or if your garden beds are relatively weed and pest-free.
How to Direct Sow Bok Choy
- Sow seeds about ¼ to ½ inch (about 1cm) deep, every 2 to 3 inches (5-7cm) in rows 6 inches (15cm) apart. Water (best to use a fine sprinkle rather than a strong jet or glug of water that may wash away the seeds), and wait for them to germinate.
- Christina suggests that after the seedlings reach about 1 to 2 inches (about 3-5cm) in height, you can thin them out to one seedling every 6 inches/15cm.
We ended up letting our bok choy plants get a bit larger than that before thinning them out. They were about 5 to 6 inches (13-15cm) tall.
While the individual bok choy stems were not quite as robust as they could’ve been, the advantage of this was that we were able to harvest good size baby bok choy as we thinned, accomplishing two things at once: thinning and dining!
Starting Seeds Indoors & Transplanting:
The advantage of this method is that you can grow young seedlings in a protected area before transplanting them outside. This allows the plants to establish, which will make them more resistant to weeds and pests.
You can also start your seeds earlier, since they’ll be in a protected area in their first few weeks. This can help you extend your harvest if you’re sowing them in succession.
It can also ensure that you are able to transplant your bok choy outside when temperatures are still relatively cool (but when all danger of frost has passed!).
How to start seeds indoors and then transplant them outside:
Start seeds indoors about 2-3 weeks before planting outside.
- In a seed tray with a couple inches (5cm) of depth, sow seeds a couple inches apart, about ¼ inch to ½ inch (about 1 cm) deep. A good rule of thumb for most seeds is sowing them about as deep as 2x the width of the seed itself.You can use a sterile seed starting mix, garden compost, or a good peat-free organic potting soil. Cover them lightly, water them, and place on a warm windowsill or heated mat to germinate. (We found the heat mat expedites the process considerably.) For even faster results, cover the seed trays with a plastic bag or clear plastic lid (recycled plastic salad boxes work great for this purpose). This keeps the air humid, which encourages germination.Water as needed. The trays should remain moist but not sodden.
- Once the seedlings begin to emerge, remove any plastic lids and place in a very well-lit, well-ventilated, and ideally somewhat cool area.They need a lot of light at this stage, or may grow “leggy.” This happens when the seedlings reach for light, resulting in weak, spindly growth. We recommend investing in grow lights for the best results. (We did not use grow lights for our seedlings this year, instead using a very sunny windowsill, and regretted this decision.)Of course, if you have a greenhouse, that would be perfect. If not (most of us don’t have this luxury!), a cool basement with grow lights and an open window or oscillating fan running a good distance away is an ideal indoor makeshift “greenhouse.”
- The first leaves to emerge are known as the “seed leaves” or “cotyledons.” These leaves collect the energy needed to produce the next set of leaves, which are known as “true leaves.” When the seedlings have 2 sets of true leaves, they are ready to be transplanted outside.Before doing that, however, it’s a good idea to harden off the plants. “Hardening off” a plant is a process by which you create a transition between its indoor and outdoor environment.You keep the seedlings in the plugs and trays they’re in, but put them in a relatively protected outdoor location to allow them to acclimate to the elements (sun, wind, and rain) before transplanting. You can harden them off for a few days, or up to a week, since bok choy is so fast-growing.
- Carefully tease out each seedling, keeping as much of its root ball intact as possible, and plant them in the ground 6 inches (15 cm) apart. Water in well.
You may be wondering why I mentioned “peat-free” potting soil above, when so many garden products, from potting soil to biodegradable plant pots, are made with peat. Peatlands store a third of the world’s soil carbon. When peat is harvested, it releases huge amounts of stored carbon dioxide into the atmosphere! Plus, it grows back extremely slowly—about 1mm per year. If you can find a peat-free option, definitely go with it. Or even better—try making your own garden compost!
We’re in the midst of our composting journey, and while we’re not experts at it yet, we will definitely share our findings here on the blog.
Harvesting Bok Choy
Bok choy is edible at all stages. You can harvest any medium or large variety early for baby bok choy.
Some bok choy varieties are grown to a small mature size, like dwarf bok choy. This type of bok choy will not continue to grow past a certain size, and should be harvested when it reaches the number of days to maturity indicated on your seed packet.
Usually, the whole head is harvested by cutting at the base of the plant. It is also possible to harvest individual outer stems, which will allow the center point of the plant to keep growing.
It’s best to harvest bok choy as you cook and eat them for optimal freshness. Otherwise, you can store it unwashed in a reusable bag or sealable container in the refrigerator for up to 4 days.
If a flower bud has started to form that looks like broccoli, that is the start of bolting (see the next section).
It is still tender and tasty at this point, but once the flower bud extends upwards and begins to flower, the plant becomes tough. It will then set seed, so it’s best to harvest it sooner than later!
Problems You May Encounter & How to Avoid/Manage Them
Here are some common garden challenges you may have when it comes to growing bok choy, from premature bolting, to pests and weeds!
We have tips on how to deal with each, coming from both Christina’s professional advice and our own experience.
A random hot day of 90°F/32°C or higher can trigger your bok choy to bolt. “Bolting” is when the plant begins to flower prematurely and then sets seed. New leaf growth stops, and the plant dies after seeding.
This is a defense mechanism for the plant. If it’s too hot, watered inconsistently, or experiences dramatic temperature swings, the plant gets stressed. It then directs its energy into flowering and creating seeds to reproduce.
This can happen to many different crops, including other leafy greens like lettuce and spinach, as well as some root vegetables like beets and onions.
You may be tempted to plant your bok choy early in spring to take advantage of more consistently cool temperatures. However, these leafy greens also don’t like when temperatures dip too low (under 45-50°F/8-10°C).
According to The Vegetable Gardener’s Bible, even if your bok choy plants survive a frost, they can bolt later on if exposed to frosty temperatures!
Another idea is planting in succession, but while this is a good idea generally to help extend the harvest, young bok choy plants can bolt just like mature plants.
That said, one thing you can do is start the bok choy indoors and then plant them out when all danger of frost has passed, but temperatures are still cool.
Our bok choy did eventually bolt after a very hot day:
How to Deal with It:
The best defense against bolting is looking at the number of days to maturity for your particular variety—say, 45 days—and choosing a stretch of that time where temperatures are most likely to stick between 50°F and 80°F (10° to 27°C).
You can also look for bok choy varieties that are more tolerant to heat than others. If this is the case, it will usually say so on the seed packet.
If you live in an area where random hot days are common in spring (we certainly do, and this is increasingly the case due to climate change!), definitely try to find one of these varieties.
Another piece of advice from Christina? Begin harvesting early. You don’t have to wait for the entire plant to mature to harvest the larger outer leaves. As soon as you see signs of bolting, harvest the entire plant and use the smaller leaves in salads or delicate soups.
Says Christina, “According to several excellent cooks I know, flowering bok choy isn’t the disaster some gardeners think. They claim that the flower stalks are tender and sweet and make a great addition to stir-fry and salads.”
We agree! As soon as your bok choy shows signs of bolting, harvest it and eat it!
Another problem you may encounter with these tender leafy greens is pest damage.
Common pests around bok choy include flea beetles and the cabbage moth. We’ve also had run-ins with slugs on our very wet property! Let’s go into each of these in more detail:
Flea Beetles: According to Christina, this pest is absolutely the reason why some crops are so heavily sprayed! It is the most prevalent, and affects all brassicas, not just bok choy. This small, shiny insect mimics the jumping motion of fleas, which is how it got its name.
Your bok choy plants are plagued by this particular pest if you see tiny holes in the leaves that look like miniature buckshot.
The good news is that the damage is mostly cosmetic, with no effect on flavor or texture. However, if left unmanaged, it can stress the plant, slow down growth, or “skeletonize” the plant’s leaves, causing irrevocable damage.
Here in the Northeast, these are an early spring and late summer/fall pest. Of course, this coincides directly with the bok choy growing season! You won’t see as many of them in the fall as in spring.
Cabbage Moth: When this particular insect is in its caterpillar stage, it will eat through bok choy leaves and leave behind dark green droppings that look like small pellets.
You’ll know you have them if you see the caterpillars on the leaves, those pelleted droppings, or the adult moths flying around the garden. In the Northeast, these are a late summer/fall pest.
Slugs: Slugs enjoy eating the young, tender leaves of all cruciferous vegetables, including bok choy (as we’re increasingly finding out, napa cabbage is one of their favorite foods, but more on that later).
They are especially common in damp areas, particularly cultivated areas like backyards, meadows, and fields. They also like damp cardboard and rotting wood, which provide a comfortable habitat.
Slug damage on leaves is pretty obvious. You’ll see irregular chunks taken out of the leaves that look like big ragged holes.
How to Deal with Them:
When it comes to jumping and flying insects like the flea beetle and cabbage moth, physical barriers are the best way to manage them.
Christina uses garden row covers, also known as floating row covers. These are made of a thin, woven white fabric that allows light, air, and water to pass through. This fabric also traps in heat.
If you live in a warmer climate, Christina recommends looking into ProtekNet. It’s an insect netting that does not trap any heat.
You could also try companion planting. Strong-smelling herbs and other crops like like thyme, dill, oregano, lavender, onions, garlic, and marigoldscan deter cabbage moths or perhaps help make your tasty brassicas less obvious to the pesky flea beetle.
Some people also plant a “trap crop” (about 8-12 feet away from your vegetables) that lures the pests away to feed on it instead, like nasturtiums, which are also edible. We’ve never tried this method, but found it in our research!
For flea beetles, you can also attempt to time your planting around their emergence and subsequent flight. This would require doing some research and getting to know local agriculture experts (Cornell Cooperative Extension is helpful!)
When it comes to slugs, which are basically snails without shells and move along the ground, you can use other physical barriers to deter them.
For one, you could try prickly things. We have personally taken this approach with the spiky balls from the sweet gum tree on our property, which we placed in a border around some of our more vulnerable beds. Other materials include sharp sand and crushed egg shells).
You can also try copper tape (it’s supposed to create a chemical reaction that deters them). There are also wildlife-safe and pet-safe slug repellents like Sluggo. It has been approved for organic use, though we haven’t personally tried it.
One way to prevent slugs from reaching your vegetables is to plant them in raised beds or containers. Just know that if your raised beds are made of old or rotting wood, those can be very good slug hiding places!
We have found that the bok choy in the raised beds had much less pest damage in general than vegetables up in the large garden. Our napa cabbage in the big garden is having major slug issues, which we’re dealing with as we speak!
With cabbage moth caterpillars and slugs, physical removal of them can also help. Ideally, though, you want to prevent them from getting onto your vegetables at all.
We all know what weeds are! They can grow in our vegetable beds, competing with our crops.
How to deal with them:
Hand-pulling weeds, or using a small fork or hoe to cut the weeds back at their roots can help damage or—in the case of hand-pulling—fully remove them. If weeding by hand, try your best to remove the entire root system to prevent regrowth.
It’s easiest to pull weeds when they’re small. You can also suppress weeds early (before the growing season begins) by adding a thick (at least 3-inch/7-8cm) layer of organic compost as a mulch. This prevents light from getting to the young emerging weeds, and also amends the soil.
We had quite a few (errr…a TON of) weeds in our bed of bok choy. I spent a good hour or so hand-pulling all of them when they were tiny, and we’ve just been keeping on top of it!
The silver lining with weeds is, if you have a lot of them, it means your soil is fertile!
Ok, so now that we’ve dropped all that knowledge, I bet many of you are wondering how we did in our bok choy growing!
As mentioned earlier, we direct seeded our bok choy into the raised beds in the kitchen garden by the barn. These were some of the first beds we prepared earlier in spring.
We waited a while to thin them. By the time we got to it, most of the plants were already a decent eating size. So we basically harvested and thinned at the same time!
We figured we would harvest half of the plants as baby bok choy. Then we’d wait for the remainder to grow bigger with the extra space.
We harvested enough for a couple of meals!
Our first harvest dinner was a simple noodle soup, which we always like to add leafy greens to. It was a tasty reward to try our first fresh veggies from the garden!
Then on the Tuesday after Memorial Day, we had an extremely hot 93°F (34°C) day, and while we’d watered our bok choy the evening before, much of it bolted. At that point, it was time to harvest the rest and enjoy it!
Bok Choy Origins & Migration
Let’s talk a little bit more about the history of this staple on our dinner table. Nicole Yeo, part of the Choy Division team, helped gather some interesting facts about bok choy!
Bok choy can be traced back to China’s fertile Yangtze River region and has been cultivated for thousands of years.
In fact, archaeologists have found Chinese cabbage seeds in river valleys dating back at least 6,000 years. Examples of modern bok choy have been dated to 3,500 years ago. Its beautiful green and white colors have even made it a frequent subject for jade carvers!
Over the centuries, this vegetable traveled to other parts of Asia. It eventually came to Europe and North America in the 19th century with Chinese immigrants.
Its history in the United States is closely linked with Chinese immigration to California in the 1800s, as Chinese farm labor increased in the state through the late 19th century.
While many traditional Chinese ingredients didn’t grow as well in America, bok choy was hardy enough to grow in this new land.Eventually, bok choy came to be one of the most accessible and well-known Chinese vegetables in Western countries.
It has worked its way into many cuisines around the world through Chinese immigration. Take the Caribbean for instance. “Pak choi” or “joy choy” is available on menus and markets in Trinidad, Guyana, Jamaica, and Cuba. Notably, Jamaicans know bok choy as “pop chow.”
The term “bok choy” that we use in English is actually a romanization of the Cantonese word for this vegetable.
This is due to the fact that most early immigrants to the U.S. were from Canton/Guangdong province in Southern China. Other common spellings are: bok choi or pak choi.
We hope this post on how to grow bok choy was helpful and will be a useful reference for you later this year and in future growing seasons. Perhaps we’ve inspired you to plant some bok choy later this summer for harvest in fall!
We’d like to thank Christina and her team at Choy Division for embarking on this collaborative series with us, and for sharing their knowledge with our readers.
Check out the Choy Division website to learn more about their mission to grow East Asian heritage crops and expand food diversity and access across New York City!
For more information on how we use bok choy and a list of recipes you can try, check out our Ingredients Glossary post, Bok Choy: Different Types and How to Cook It.
We have four more posts in this series coming up. In July, we’ll be talking about Napa Cabbage! Then we’ll move on to Chinese eggplant, peppers, and garlic chives.
Any lingering questions? Feedback on the post? Stories or tips of your own to share? Let us know in the comments below!
How to Harvest Bok Choy & Regrowing for More! - YouTube
Sow bok choy in spring and again in late summer for harvest in fall. Sow in double rows, with rows spaced 10 inches (25 cm) apart. Plant seeds 2 inches (5 cm) apart and barely cover them with soil. Gradually thin to 8 inches (20 cm) apart.
You can cut about one-third to one half of the plant at a time, harvesting the outermost leaves. New leaves will begin growing right away! Bok choy's readiness to regrow and provide more leaves to eat is one of my favorite things about it.
Bok choy only takes 45 days to reach maturity, so you can enjoy your leafy greens relatively quickly after planting them. Harvest the bok choy before the hot weather sets in, because the hot weather will make the bok choy go to seed very fast. Bok choy is ready to harvest when it reaches 12 to 18 inches tall.
Bok choy harvesting is done all season long. For a constant supply of the plant, sow seeds every two weeks until the high heat of summer arrives. Row covers will help supply some shelter from scorching sun and may extend the harvest.
When bok choy bolts, the leaves and stems can become tough and woody. The plants will stop growing, focusing their energy on setting seeds instead. The flowers may be pretty, but they signal the end of your bok choy, or pak choi, as it's often called.
Bok choy is a good-sized plant. To grow potted bok choy, begin with a pot with a depth of about 20 inches (50 cm.) and a width of at least 12 inches (30 cm.) in order to grow one plant.
Bok choy prefers being planted in soil that's recently been fertilized. A heavy feeder, it needs nitrogen for leaf growth and phosphorus and potassium. It's best to add fertilizers in the form of compost or a composted chicken manure at the time of planting instead of throughout its growth.
It needs rich soil with plenty of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Be sure to add plenty of compost and some organic fertilizer to the soil at planting time. It grows best in full sun, but can tolerate some shade. In hot climates, afternoon shade is good because it will delay bolting.
Bok Choy (Brassica rapa)
These greens will continue growing if you use them as cut-and-come-again crops, meaning you only harvest what you need in that moment. But they will eventually go to seed. Let them. This will provide you with fresh, better-tasting plants.
Since bolting is a hormonal process in the whole plant, cutting off the flower stalk will not stop bolting, but it will slow down the movement of resources out of your bok choy leaves, which could give you more time before the leaves become almost inedible.
It is important to note that Bok Choy flowers can be consumed when they are still mostly in their tight green buds and are just emerging. The flowers can also be eaten when they have fully opened and are used whole or separated into petals.
Bok choy needs fairly moist but never soggy soil conditions. Drought can cause it to bolt to seed too early. Your plants will need consistent watering, especially in the drier fall months. The best rule of thumb is to give bok choy 1 inch of water a week so the soil remains moist between waterings.
Bolting of Plant
The seed stalk grows to about twice the height of the foliage and produces a small cluster of yellow flowers. After the flowers wilt, the seeds finish maturing in the remaining seed pods. Bok choy wilts and dies after setting seed.
Bok Choy should not be planted near broccoli, Brussels sprouts, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Dill, Strawberries, or Tomatoes. Many of these crops will attract the same pests as Bok Choy and can create problems with harmful insects overpowering your garden. Other crops like tomatoes can get stunted growth.
Bok Choy should not be planted near broccoli, Brussels sprouts, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Dill, Strawberries, or Tomatoes. Many of these crops will attract the same pests as Bok Choy and can create problems with harmful insects overpowering your garden. Other crops like tomatoes can get stunted growth.
A few bok choy (Brassica rapa [Chinensis Group]) flowers before the harvest don't have to mean total failure. The flower stalks indicate the first stages of the end of life for this cool-season vegetable, meaning no more leaves for the harvest.
Why Is My Bok Choy Plant Flowering? Flowering can happen for a variety of reasons, mostly related to your bok choy experiencing high temperatures, sudden temperature swings, or drought. It can also happen naturally if your bok choy was overwintered.
Bolting is usually caused by changes in environmental conditions. Commonly, it can be caused by a sudden cold spell, or sudden high temperatures. Changes in day length and light levels can also initiate this behaviour. When plants are under stress, this can also lead them to bolt prematurely.
You may have better luck avoiding bolting if you plant bok choy in the late summer and early fall when temperatures are fairly steady.. Container growth is also possible for a small garden of bok choy.. The best rule of thumb is to give bok choy 1 inch of water a week so the soil remains moist between waterings.. However, it may quickly bolt to seed the following spring.. Harvest leaves from the outer part of the plant to allow the inner leaves to continue growing.. When you've harvested what seems like all the leaves from plants, slice the plants off about 1 inch above the ground and they should re-sprout for you, or you can propagate in water.. Fill the pot with a lightweight potting mix that is well-draining, but do not use regular dense soil.. You can take the new leafy base out of its water and plant it in a container or outdoors if the timing is right.
Pak choi is a cabbage family plant that grows best in moderately cool weather like other brassicas.. If you too want to grow this quick-growing vegetable, then here’s all the information on Growing Pak Choi in Containers.. Win-Win Choi: This white stemmed pak choi variety is a hybrid.. It does not grow more than 10-12 inches.. The late planting will also help you in stopping the premature bolting of pak choi as young plants exposed to frost or a nighttime temperature below 10 C (50 F) continuously bolts prematurely .. Choose a container that is 6 inches deep and as wide as possible for growing dwarf or baby pak choi.. Pak choi grows well in part shade.. Regular watering, choosing the correct variety, timing, and best soil are the key to a bountiful harvest.. For harvesting whole heads, wait for 45-55 days, depending more on the variety.
The baby bok choy variety is easier to eat raw, much like spinach.. Vitamin K deficiency has been linked to greater risk of fractures and weaker bones.. Bok choy is one of the best sources of potassium combined with vitamin A and C. The magnesium in bok choy has a calming effect on nerves and promotes adequate blood flow.. Folate helps the body absorb iron more efficiently, which in turn leads to increased production of red blood cells by the body.. The beta-carotene, selenium , Vitamin K , and vitamin C , combine to maintain eye health .. A healthy functioning immune system is necessary to prevent any chronic disease from entering the body.. Bok choy is an excellent source of vitamin C white is the holy grail of vitamins for skin health.
There are different varieties, which can cause confusion at the grocery store.. It comes in several different varieties, but is generally characterized by stalks attached at the base of the vegetable, like celery or napa cabbage.. Bok choy is actually the Cantonese name of the vegetable (白菜 – báicài in Mandarin, or literally, “white vegetable”).. In non-Chinese grocery stores, you’ll sometimes find the gigantic ones with white stalks and large, dark green leaves.. For the majority of your Chinese dishes, however, you’ll want to go to a Chinese grocery to find the smaller, more tender vegetables.. You may also see another baby variety with white stems and ruffled dark green leaves.. Any variety can make a great stir-fry!. Shanghai bok choy is what we find in restaurants more often than not, with their spoon-shaped flat leaves and light green stems.. We love these smaller, tender vegetables for cooking at home.. They are a bit stubbier with shorter, fat white stems and curly dark green leaves.. Add the vegetables to a large bowl of cold water, and fully submerge the leaves.. Add the vegetables back to the bowl, cover with cold water again, and repeat 1 to 2 times more for a total of 2 to 3 washes, depending on how sandy the vegetables are.
Skip to content Turn the ramen in your pantry into Baby Bok Choy Salad, a crunchy, good-for-you recipe loaded with vegetables, almonds, toasted noodles, and a killer sesame soy dressing.. Baby bok choy.. To make the sesame dressing, add the brown sugar, oil (olive oil, or a toasted sesame oil), vinegar, sesame seeds, and soy sauce to a jar with a tight-fitting lid.. Meanwhile, chop up the bok choy and scallions (as well as any other fun, fresh ingredients) and add them to a big bowl.. Turn the ramen in your pantry into Baby Bok Choy Salad, a crunchy, good-for-you recipe loaded with vegetables, almonds, toasted noodles, and a killer sesame soy dressing.. To make the dressing, in a small bowl, whisk together brown sugar, olive oil, vinegar, sesame seeds, and soy sauce.. In a large bowl, combine baby bok choy, scallions, and crunchy mix.. The baby bok choy and scallions may be chopped and store separately in containers in the refrigerator.. To make the salad gluten free: Leave out the ramen noodles Substitute GF soy sauce
Within a week or so, new roots should begin to form along with new leaves and you can transplant your new lettuce plants into the soil.. Roots will soon begin to grow and as soon as the roots are growing well, these cuttings can be transplanted into containers, or directly into your garden.. Harvest and eat the leaves of root crops, in addition to their roots.. But when you garden, you can easily make use of all your vegetable scraps, and make sure that absolutely nothing is wasted.. For example, you might want to use vegetable scraps:
It’s now nearly 5 years later, and bok choy, also called pac choy or bok choi, is a regular feature in my home cooking and a staple in my garden.. With the right planting strategy, growing bok choy can be a breeze.. Plant bok choy indoors in the spring 4 to 6 weeks before the last frost date.. While you can start bok choy plants indoors, I prefer to direct sow this plant.. I usually plant my bok choy in raised beds.. Once your bok choy plants start to grow, here’s how to keep them happy before they end up on your dinner plate:. I’ve not experienced any disease issues with my choy plants in the several years I’ve been readily growing this Asian vegetable.. While cabbage worms were less interested in my bok choy plants, they eventually gravitated there in the end.. Tarnished plant bugs suck the juices out of plants and the inject plants with a toxic substance that can cause them to suffer.. Give plants plenty of space, water in the morning, so plants have time to dry by the evening, and keep the ground around plants clean of any debris.. I prefer to plant bok choy with other brassicas.. Bok Choy is a pretty easy going plant, though, so it pairs well with several other vegetable and herbs.. I like to harvest bok choy when I need it in the kitchen, but if you’re afraid of potential bolting, harvest plants and store in the fridge for up to a week or so.
Before food supplies cannot keep up with the demands, you must do something to make sure you and your family have enough food supply.. Grow these vegetable garden plants now and get your harvests soon!. However, you don’t always need to rely on outside food sources.. We planted spinach about three weeks ago, and we might be one week away from eating our first spinach salad.. While lettuce might not pack that kind of filling quality that starchier hardier vegetables do, lettuce adds texture and variety to dry food storage .. Grow a variety of lettuces, too, so you can enjoy the different colors, flavors, and textures in your salads.. You can plant English peas or snow peas, it doesn’t really matter, they both get up fast and start producing food in a hurry.. Don’t forget your beans and peas are nitrogen fixers and offer benefits to your soil.. The beet tops or beet greens are also incredibly nutritious.. These roots have a very quick harvest time, and, like the turnips, the greens grow back after being clipped.. Scallions are another simple and fast spring vegetable that will become viable very quickly.. A Chinese vegetable from the brassica family, bok choy is a fast-growing spring and winter vegetable.. However, you can grow food in your backyard, and you can even vegetable garden plant seeds now that will become food in the next 30-45 days.
My garden’s bok choy went into overdrive this season, and I was left with dozens of plants and little idea what do with them all.. As a member of the cabbage family, bok choy has a crispy texture that holds up in high heat, which makes it a prized ingredient in Asian recipes.. Heat a wok over medium heat and place the bok choy on the bottom, covering the leaves with enough chicken broth or vegetable broth to submerge them.. You’ll want to bake them at around 400 F in the oven for about 20 minutes, or until the leaves start to brown.. Bok choy’s thick white stems hold up well when boiled, which makes this cabbage green a perfect addition to soup recipes.. In fact, the green tops of bok choy leaves can be substituted for any other kind of green in your favorite soup recipe.. While bok choy is traditionally served cooked, there’s no reason why you can’t add the raw greens to a salad for a subtle nutty flavor.. Baby leaves work best, especially when mixed with another mild green like romaine.. You can prepare bok choy to perfection with just a few minutes above the charcoal.. Homemade sauerkraut is not an experience to be missed, and you can. make your own at home with extra bok choy.. The white stems are best for this. recipe, so you might want to find an alternative use for the leaves.. Both the stems and leaves hold up well when frozen, especially if you blanch them in boiling water for two minutes first.. This versatile green is a breeze to grow.. As bok choy is a cold-tolerant plant, you don’t want to start it too. late in the growing season.. It doesn’t take much time or effort to grow your own bok choy, and the benefits of having a home supply make it more than worth it.
Chickpea plant with pods. Chickpeas require a long growing season; to get a head start on the season, sow chickpeas indoors in a peat or paper pot several weeks before transplanting out.. Set the chickpea and biodegradable pot whole in the garden when the plant is 4 to 5 inches (10-12cm) tall.. Avoid planting chickpeas where green manures have just grown or in soil high in nitrogen; this will result in green leafy growth, not seed production.. Chickpeas require a long growing season; to get a head start on the season, sow chickpeas indoors in a peat or paper pot and transplant the pot and plant whole to the garden when the plants are 3 to 4 inches (7-10cm) tall.. Do not plant chickpeas with garlic.. Chickpeas can be grown in containers 8 inches deep, the space required for a useable crop makes chickpeas a poor choice for container growing.. Keep chickpea planting beds evenly moist until chickpeas have pushed through the soil.. Keep planting beds weed-free but cultivate around chickpeas carefully so as not to disturb the plant’s shallow root system.. For dried chickpeas, harvest the entire plant when the leaves have withered and turned brown; place the plant on a flat, warm surface and allow the pods to dry.. Chickpea is a bushy plant that grows to about 18 inches (45cm) tall and has pairs of dark green, compound leaflets that look like vetch.
Plant these in full sun areas that receive the most direct sunlight per day.. Root vegetables, such as beets, carrots, and potatoes will grow in partially shaded areas that have less direct sunlight, but will appreciate at least a half-day of full sun and some partial shade.. Here are over 30 vegetables that you can grow in partial shade:. Harvest: Plants should be 3 years old before harvesting.. Varieties to Consider: There are so many varieties of garlic to grow.. Grow kale in partial shade and it will produce leafy greens all season long.. Harvest: About 120 to 180 days for mature roots.. Peas are a cool season vegetable that will appreciate a partial shade as the weather heats up.. Do you have any other tips for growing vegetables in partial shade?
Use the leaves fresh or dry in salads, soups, and stews.. In cold winter regions, sow indoors in autumn and transplant out in spring.. How much to plant: Grow one lovage plant for culinary use; grow one plant for preserving.. Container growing: Grow lovage in a pot 12 inches wide and deep.. Harvest leaves for drying before the plant flowers.. Leaves: Use celery-flavored lovage leaves, fresh, frozen, or dried, anywhere you would use celery.. Lovage enhances the flavor of potatoes, tomatoes, steamed vegetables, rice, chicken, and poultry stuffings.. Stems: Blanch the stems and eat them like celery or slice them into salads, stews, and soups.. Seed: Stratify lovage seeds for 1 to 2 weeks and then sow indoors.. Stephen Albert is a horticulturist, master gardener, and certified nurseryman who has taught at the University of California for more than 25 years.
Get instant access to healthy low-carb and keto meal plans, fast and easy recipes, weight loss advice from medical experts, and so much more.. Vegetables with high-protein percentages are low in both calories and net carbs .. So eat as much as you want of the vegetables with higher protein percentages.. To optimize satiety and healthy weight loss, we recommend aiming to eat at least 100 grams of protein per day if you’re a woman and 140 grams if you’re a man of average height and build.. In this guide, we provide both the protein percentages and gram amounts per serving for vegetables.. These vegetables usually provide more protein per calorie than starchy vegetables that grow below the ground.. Below are the protein percentages and gram amounts of protein, fiber, and net carbs per 3.5-ounce (100-gram) serving of vegetables.. Asparagus Protein percentage: 53% 2.4 grams of protein, 2 grams of fiber, and 2 grams of net carbs per serving One serving is approximately 3/4 cup of cooked asparagus.. Cauliflower Protein percentage: 36% 2 grams of protein, 2 grams of fiber, and 3 grams of net carbs per serving One serving is approximately 1 cup of chopped cauliflower (cooked or raw).. Below are the protein percentages and gram amounts of protein, fiber, and net carbs per 3.5-ounce (100-gram) serving of vegetables.. Winter squash Protein percentage: 13% (average) 1 gram of protein, 3 grams of fiber, and 6 grams of net carbs per serving. One serving is approximately 1/2 cup of chopped, cooked squash.
wide Sun Exposure Full sun, partial sun Soil Type Loamy, sandy, well-drained Soil pH Acidic, neutral (6 to 7) Bloom Time Spring, fall Hardiness Zones 4–7 (USDA) Native Area Asia. Napa cabbage is sometimes planted in the early spring for midsummer harvesting, with seeds often started indoors six weeks before the last frost.. Whenever it is planted, the heads will be ready to harvest in 70 to 90 days after seedlings sprout.. Regular watering will help to encourage growth and to prevent the plant from going to seed early.. However, unless you want your cabbage to go to seed, you don't have to worry about pollination.. Cut off the bottom, leaving around an inch of the leaves.. Napa cabbage generally will be ready for harvesting starting 70 days after it sprouts.. Napa cabbage is a biennial typically grown as an annual, meaning it's harvested in one growing season.